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홍차넷
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티타임
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- 다양한 주제에 대해 자유롭게 글을 작성하는 게시판입니다.
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전체기타일상/생각꿀팁/강좌방송/연예도서/문학영화의료/건강문화/예술경제생활체육과학/기술철학/종교정치요리/음식역사여행육아/가정IT/컴퓨터음악창작게임스포츠사회오프모임
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| Date |
Warning: Use of undefined constant reg_date - assumed 'reg_date' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view.php on line 53 20/07/06 20:24:00 Warning: Use of undefined constant mod_date - assumed 'mod_date' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view.php on line 56 수정됨 |
| Name | 이그나티우스 |
| Subject | 집밥의 이상과 현실 |
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예전에 인터넷 어딘가에서 읽은 댓글이 하나 떠오른다. "세상에 된장찌개만큼 쉬운 음식이 없습니다. 된장 한숟갈에 파, 두부, 애호박, 고추를 송송 썰어넣고 물을 자작하게 맞춰 보글보글끓이면 되는 음식인데, 이걸 굳이 돈주고 사먹을 필요가 있을까요?" 물론 위 댓글이 눈감고도 된장찌개를 끓일 정도의 요리 썩은물의 댓글이라면 내가 지레짐작으로 오해한 것이니 반성해야 할 것이다. 그렇지만 단순히 먹는 사람 입장에서 저런 댓글을 썼다면 정말이지 가정에서 음식을 조리한다는 것에 대한 이해가 1도 없는 것이다. 위 댓글 자체만 뜯어놓고 봐도 애시당초 틀렸다. 된장, 재료, 물을 넣고 끓이면 당신이 아는 된장찌개가 아니라 된장 끓인 물이 된다. 생각보다 재료에서 우러나는 맛은 강하지가 않기 때문이다. 그렇다면 무엇을 해야 하느냐? 물이 아니라 육수를 넣어야 한다. 나의 어머니는 멸치육수를 선호하시는 편인데, 멸치육수든 소고기 국물이든 뭐든 간에 하여간에 그냥 맹물이 아니라 육수가 들어가야 우리가 아는 그 깊은맛이 난다. 거기다가 단순히 육수만 넣는다고 끝이 아니다. 누구나 알지만 이름을 언급해선 안되는 마법의 가루 한스푼을 타거나, 혹은 제품으로 나온 된장찌개용 소스를 넣지 않으면 된장찌개가 되긴 해도 당신이 아는 그 '깊은 맛'은 전혀 나지 않을 것이다. (아마 육수라는 대목을 생략했기 때문에 아마도 위의 댓글은 요리 썩은물의 발언일 가능성은 대단히 낮다고 생각이 되는 부분이다.) 하지만 저 댓글의 진정한 문제점은 레시피에 대한 무지가 아니라, 조리라는 행위의 맥락에 대한 무지에 있다. 애시당초 우리가 생각하는 (요리 프로그램에 나오는) 조리과정은 조리 전체의 과정에서 가장 덜 귀찮은 부분이다. 식단 구성으로부터 시작해 재료의 수급과 보관, 그리고 조리 후 음식물찌꺼기의 처리 뿐 아니라, 남은 음식의 보관 및 처리에 이르기까지 엄청나게 귀찮고 손이 많이 가면서도 딱히 보람은 없는 수많은 과정에 비하면 칼로 재료를 자르고 간을 맞추고 익히는 요리의 과정은 놀이나 다름없다. 조금 자세하게 들어가보자면, 식단 구성이야 뭐 그렇다고 쳐도 재료를 구하고 보관하는 것이 결코 간단하지가 않다. 거의 10년도 더된 이야기긴 한데, 한때 "냉장고를 버리자."라는 주장이 유행한 적이 있다. 대형마트에 가서 한번에 음식을 대량으로 구매해서 냉장고에 박아넣고 그때그때 꺼내어 쓰는 행위는 갓 생산한 신선한 식재료으로부터의 소외일 뿐 아니라, 식재료의 소비를 광역에 걸친 대자본의 유통 네트워크에 종속시킴으로써 지역사회를 황폐화시키는 사회모순적 행위라는 것이다. 복잡한 이데올로기적 논의는 잘 모르겠는데, 갓 사온 재료를 쓰는게 좋다는 것은 나의 요리 경험상 사실이다. 문제는 누군가 재료를 사올 당번이 존재하지 않는 이상 매일 식재료를 구입해 오는 것이 그리 간단치는 않다는 것이다. 지금처럼 1인가구와 맞벌이가구가 급증하는 추세에 집에 돌아오는 길에 그날 먹을 식재료를 매번 구입한다는 것은 생각만큼 간단한 과업이 아니다. 결국에는 현실적으로는 1주일에서 열흘 정도의 텀으로 냉장보관 가능한 식자재를 이용하는 것이 가능한 타협책인데, 현실적으로 '지속가능한 소비'라는 대의를 위해서 매일 장을 보는 수고를 기울일 사람이 몇이나 될지 의문이다. 식자재의 보관 및 폐기 역시도 간단한 문제가 아니다. 효율을 극단적으로 중시하는 경우에는 아예 재료를 싸그리 냉동시켜 필요한 만큼 해동시켜 쓰는 사람도 있다. 이 경우는 해동에 손이 갈 뿐 아니라 재료의 퀄리티는 다소 떨어지겠지만 적어도 폐기의 걱정으로부터는 상대적으로 자유롭다. 그렇지만 재료를 냉장하기로 결정한 이상 끊임없는 폐기와의 싸움에 시달려야 한다. (사실 냉동도 폐기의 굴레로부터 완전히 자유롭지는 않다.) 재료에 따라 다르긴 하지만 아무리 길어도 1주일 이상 냉장보관 가능한 식자재는 많지 않고, 결국 조금이라도 예정된 식단대로 요리를 하지 못하면 식자재의 폐기문제가 발생하게 된다. 뿐만 아니라 부산물과 잔반처리도 상당한 골치다. 보통의 가정에서 선택할 수 있는 선택지는 "껍질깐 채소"와 같이 공장에서 전처리를 일부 해놓은 재료를 구입하는 것과, 수확된 것과 그리 다르지 않은 물리적 속성을 보유한 재료를 사는 것이 있다. 전자로 갈수록 폐기물과 처리과정에서의 품은 줄지만 식재료라는 것이 원 상태에서 멀어질수록 빨리 신선도가 떨어지기 때문에 사자마자 막상 요리했을때 맛이 없거나 아차하는 순간에 거대한 곤죽의 덩어리가 되는 수가 있다. 그렇지만 신선도를 위해 수확한 그대로의 재료를 사면 집에서 껍질을 벗기고 불필요한 부분을 떼내는 과정에서 시간낭비가 많을 뿐 아니라, 어마어마한 폐기물이 발생한다. 귀찮은 것은 둘째치고라도 전문적인 지식이 없는 개인이 식자재를 보관하고 관리하는 것은 역시 엉성할 수밖에 없어서 주의를 조금만 덜 기울이면 음식이 부패하거나, 세균이 번식하는 등의 일로 인해서 집에서 음식을 해먹었는데도 배탈이 나는 불행한 사고가 발생하곤 한다. 재료뿐 아니라 잔반도 계속 발생한다. 특히 1인가구거나 핵가족일수록 다음에 먹으려고 남겨두었던 잔반이 냉장고 속에서 금세 곰팡이덩어리의 음식물쓰레기로 변하는 경우가 부지기수다. 그렇다고 먹을 음식의 양을 정확히 계측하는 것 역시 쉽지가 않아서 결국 요리를 하는 이상 잔반과의 전쟁은 끝나지가 않는다. 그렇기 때문에 이번주에 내가 요리좀 했다 싶으면 어김없이 싱크대의 수채구멍이 음식물 쓰레기의 조각으로 쉽게 막히는데, 그걸 파내서 음식물쓰레기통에 담아 버리는 짓을 할 때마다 무슨 대단한 영화를 보겠다고 이 더러운 짓거리를 평생 계속해야 하는가, 하는 현타가 올 수밖에 없는 것이다. 더군다나 디스포저가 없는 우리나라의 현실에서 썩은물이 줄줄 흐르는 음식물 쓰레기를 주거지 인근의 음식물쓰레기 폐기함에 가서 버리고 보관하는 용기나 봉지를 처리하는 것은 말 그대로 하나부터 열까지 극혐의 연속이라 할 만하다. 심지어 이 모든 행위를 했을 때 돈이라도 덜 들면 모르겠는데, 요즘 하늘을 뚫는 시몬과 카미나의 드릴과 같은 기세로 오르는 식자재 가격으로 인해 원가계산을 해보면 딱히 사먹는 음식보다 별로 저렴하지 않거나 심지어 더 비싼 경우도 많다. (그래도 아직까지 요리가 배달보다는 다소 저렴하긴 하지만, 그것도 정말 '다소'라 노력과 시간을 고려하면 정말 저렴한지도 모르겠다.) 다시 처음의 이야기로 돌아가 된장찌개를 만드는 행위는 재료를 송송 썰어넣어 보글보글 끓이는 따위의 목가적인 행위가 아니다. 된장찌개 한 냄비를 끓이는 그 짧은 순간에도 고추와 애호박, 그리고 파를 사전에 세척해야 하고(재료의 세척이 잘 안되면 배탈난다.), 깐 껍질을 쓰레기통에 처리해야 하며, 남은 재료를 보관할 방책을 강구해야 한다. 특히 양파나 파만큼 자주 쓰이지는 않는 애호박 같은 경우에는 다음날 애호박전이라도 하지 않는 다음에야 냉장고 속의 쓰레기로 변할 우려가 큰 골칫덩이이다. 고기와 두부를 뺀 야채의 걱정만 해도 이정도다. 거기다가 육수재료의 준비뿐 아니라, 제품육수를 사용할 경우에는 그 육수 팩의 처리까지 골치가 아픈 행위이고, 이 모든 과정을 다 거치고 식사를 한끼 하고 나면 냄비에서부터 그릇에 이르는 다종다양한 설거지의 무덤을 마주해야 한다. 남는 된장찌개의 처리문제는 덤이다. 이것도 2~3일 안에 처리 못하면 역시 된장과 곰팡이로 범벅된 거대한 음식물쓰레기의 곤죽을 마주하게 되는 것이다. 이 어마어마한 과정에 질린 나머지 나는 정말 어지간하면 된장찌개를 잘 끓이지 않는다. 하려면 금방 하긴 하는데, 그 과정과 뒷처리가 너무 진절머리가 나기 때문이다. 애초에 인간이 먹는 음식을 생산하는 행위 자체가 대단히 노동집약적인 행위이다. 그렇기 때문에 산업사회가 발달할수록 센트럴 키친과 콜드체인을 완비한 거대 외식기업이 등장하는 이유는 그 때문이다. 단순히 자기 자신이나 불과 몇명이 먹기 위해 재료를 준비하고, 그 뒷처리를 하는 일은 어지간한 근성이 없으면 하기가 어려운 일이다. (그렇기 때문에 나는 지금까지 가정주부(그게 남자건 여자건 간에)들의 공헌도가 지나치게 과소평가되어왔다고 생각한다.) 우리가 아는 현대식 편의점의 아버지라 할 수 있는 일본 세븐&아이 홀딩스의 전 회장 스즈키 토시후미(鈴木敏文)는 자신의 자서전에서 편의점에서 냉장보관하여 판매하는 가정식 제품을 출시할 당시 어정쩡하게 집에서 음식을 만들어 먹는 것보다는 위생적으로 관리되는 공장애서 맛있게 만든 가정식을 사먹는 편이 훨씬 낫다는 점을 소비자들에게 납득시키고 싶었다는 언급을 한다. 솔직히 이 언급의 90% 정도는 홍보용 멘트에 불과하겠지만, 그럼에도 불구하고 나는 영화 블랙 호크 다운의 대사처럼 그 "광고를 믿는다." 왜냐하면 집에서 해 먹는 것이 무조건 다 좋은 것은 아니기 때문이다. 우리는 집밥에 대해 그것이 우리의 영혼을 치유해줄 한 그릇의 음식인 것처럼 환상을 갖지만 상당히 많은 경우 사먹는 음식보다 맛있지도 않고, 위생적이지도 않으며, 심지어 저렴하지도 않다. 물론 그렇다고 내가 음식은 사먹자 주의인 것은 아니다. 어차피 그럴 만한 돈도 없을 뿐더러, 자취를 몇년간 하면서 이제는 요리가 하나의 취미가 되어서 대부분의 끼니는 내가 스스로 만들어 먹는다. 하지만 나 스스로가 요리를 하면서도 집밥에 대한 과도한 환상을 갖는 사람들을 볼 때마다 어떤 식으로든 위화감을 느낀다. 물론 자기가 정말 요리를 잘 해서 나는 남이 해주는 음식은 안(못) 먹어요, 이런 케이스는 리스펙한다. 그렇지만 요리에 따르는 엄청난 수고에 대한 인식 없이 단순히 집밥에 대한 판타지만 가지고 있는 케이스를 보면 참 복잡한 생각을 하게 된다. 1인가구와 맞벌이 가정이 늘어가는 현실 속에서 결국에는 '음식 사 먹는다'는 행위는 선택이 아니라 필수가 될 가능성이 높다고 생각한다. 어차피 현실을 바꿀 수도 없는 이상에야 집밥과 사먹는 음식 중 어느 한쪽을 신성시하거나 악마화하는 것은 그리 현명한 발상이라고는 생각하기 어렵다. 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Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 600
Warning: Use of undefined constant is_admin - assumed 'is_admin' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 605
Warning: Use of undefined constant is_admin - assumed 'is_admin' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 605
Warning: Use of undefined constant is_admin - assumed 'is_admin' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 609
Warning: Use of undefined constant is_admin - assumed 'is_admin' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 609
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 614
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 616
Warning: Use of undefined constant x - assumed 'x' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 618
Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/lib.php on line 618
Warning: Use of undefined constant x - assumed 'x' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 612
Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 612
Warning: Use of undefined constant reg_date - assumed 'reg_date' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 620
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 628
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 628
Warning: Use of undefined constant HTTP_HOST - assumed 'HTTP_HOST' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 640
Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 644
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 646
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/view.php on line 646
Warning: Use of undefined constant HTTP_HOST - assumed 'HTTP_HOST' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/pb/cmt_replace.php on line 3
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 6
Warning: Use of undefined constant file_name - assumed 'file_name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 28
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 65
145722 class="iamcmt" style="display:none;"> Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 66
145722 class='vcm '>
Warning: Use of undefined constant x - assumed 'x' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 70
Warning: Use of undefined constant x - assumed 'x' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 71
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 76
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 117
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 118
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 119
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 120
Warning: Use of undefined constant ismember - assumed 'ismember' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 121
145722'> 불타는밀밭
Warning: Use of undefined constant mod_date - assumed 'mod_date' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 133
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 140
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 140
Warning: Use of undefined constant reg_date - assumed 'reg_date' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 142
20/07/06 20:27
145722>삭제 주소복사
Warning: Use of undefined constant level - assumed 'level' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 150
냉장고 버리자 이런 말은 철학자 강신주 씨가 했었던 걸로 기억합니다.
Warning: Use of undefined constant level - assumed 'level' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 158
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 166
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant vote - assumed 'vote' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 172
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 173
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 173
Warning: Use of undefined constant vote - assumed 'vote' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 173
1
Warning: Use of undefined constant level - assumed 'level' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 158
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 166
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant password - assumed 'password' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 168
Warning: Use of undefined constant vote - assumed 'vote' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 172
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 173
Warning: Use of undefined constant no - assumed 'no' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 173
Warning: Use of undefined constant vote - assumed 'vote' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/redtea/html/a_skin/bbsd/view_comment.php on line 173
1
145722>
145722>
